Monday, October 31, 2016
Building A Cathedral,Part 1
John 3:16 cathedral calligraphy piece
Greetings and salutations! I thought for this installment that we would explore an older piece that I am asked about from time to time, the John 3:16 piece whose capital and borders are done as the principal forms of a cathedral. The idea for this came to me about 5 years ago during the early stages of my "time to get serious about art" phase. I had been practising writing and painting for a short time and began wondering if it were possible to combine calligraphy with portrait painting and sculpting. From there,the seeds were planted to begin the experiment. Of course,I had absolutely no idea of what materials to use or even what to do,though I did know that the piece would be centered around the John 3:16 verse. Basically,the style that was settled upon was drawn from my adoration of Gothic architecture,particularly the Rheims and St. Chapelle cathedrals in France. After choosing a motif,the final conundrum was to figure out what material to use for the sculpting. Around that time,a friend had given me a barely used jug of Gesso from a deceased family member who had done mostly oil painted landscapes. After some research and finding out that modern Gesso is basically a type of acrylic plaster,I figured it had to work! Finally,all of the materials were worked out and the next step was to begin the project. To be clear about it,when beginning this piece,I always kept in mind that it was purely an experiment and that it would probably end up in the trash pile....luckily,it didn't!
Before we get into the details,the most asked question I get about it is,"How do you get the acrylic Gesso to shape up like you want it to"? Anyone who has messed with gesso knows that in its regular form,it is pretty thin and runs almost like water when applied with a pen. There is no magic formula or special process involved. Simply pour an amount of the gesso into an open container and let it set for 2 or 3,or more days. It will begin to set up in the open air and will need to be stirred once in a while. The initial drying process has the effect of thickening the gesso and after a couple days or so,it will be to the point that it can be applied with a dip pen and will be malleable enough to manipulate into the shapes that you want.If it becomes too thick,you can add a few drops of water and stir it until the consistency you want is reached. Once you begin working with it and get the "feel",it will become much easier to keep the gesso balanced to the mix that you desire. Without further adieu,we will get in to the materials and the mechanics of the piece!
For a paper foundation,I decided to use a pre-primed canvas paper measuring 20"X 24". I chose the canvas paper because it was thick and tough enough to handle the weight of the large amounts of gesso necessary to complete it. As with any piece, the layout is always most important as it determines the foundation of what goes where and the aesthetics of how it will look when finished. For this, the first part that was laid out was the capital details and the lettering.The lettering was done with gouache water paint thinned enough to be applied with a steel nib dip pen. See Fig.1 for the lettering and the initial penciled layout of the capital. I will apologise here for the poor quality of the photos as I did not have a high quality camera!
Fig.1 - pencil layout for the capital and the lettering of the verse.
Hopefully from Fig.1,you can see the layout well enough to get the idea for what was being attempted. For the capital design, the main portal of Rheims Cathedral was used for inspiration. The text was my attempt at doing a kind of flourished German fraktur lettering. The capital letter "F" is a type of extremely complex and ornate 17th century German calligraphy form called "Kunestrichtigesch". You may note here that initially the capital letter was flat and red rather than the final version which is raised and copper leafed. Remember,this piece was purely experimental and always subject to change at the drop of a hat. Now that we have seen the lettering and the rough capital layout,we will get a closer look at the application of the gesso.
Fig.2 - Gesso applied for first statue.
Fig.2 shows a close up the statuary section located at the bottom of the capital letter section. Here we see the gesso applied for the column structures and the first statue......I am left handed,therefore everything is done in the reverse(right to left) of what you may be used to. You can also see here a much better view of the layout as well and how the gesso is pretty much kept within the bounds of the lines. The gesso on this entire piece was applied and shaped with a straight steel pointed dip pen. It was done slowly and carefully in layers,so patience and perseverance is the key here! The details of the statue was done by laying down a thick layer and working it in as it began drying. Gesso,when put on thickly,dries from the outside inward and the outer skin layer begins to take on a "rubbery" effect. You can use the dip pen to VERY carefully move and shift the outer layer around to achieve shapes such as the wrinkles on clothing. I say VERY carefully because if you puncture the outer layer,the gesso will actually deflate! Another important thing to remember is that when it is completely dried,it ALWAYS goes through the dreaded shrinkage.....that is just the nature of the beast! So,if you do puncture it and of course,go through shrinkage after working hard to get a nice beautiful statue,don't get distraught or discouraged. Simply apply more layers and carefully work them in until you get the effect you are after.
Another question I am frequently asked is,"How do you get the delicate traceries to remain suspended above the paper with no support of any kind?" Unfortunately,that is a trade secret and I would be banished to the gulag if I were to divulge it! Well,not really....and I will divulge it to you! The secret to doing nice suspended traceries is nothing more than the use of paper. Even in its thickened state,gesso would be almost impossible to cantilever out under its own weight. The best paper I have found so far to use is the thick backing board paper that is commonly used by comic book collectors to provide support for their plastic bags. All you need is an X-Acto knife,or similar to cut out the designs....and always use a good magnifying light or lens in a well lit area. After cutting out the design,simply brush a couple coats of gesso on it. The gesso penetrates the fibers of the paper and when dried,becomes very stiff and still retains malleability to allow shaping. You can then "glue" it onto the piece with drops of gesso and build it up thicker and more ornate. You can achieve mindblowing results with even the smallest parts and pieces this way!
Fig.3 - At the half way point of the statuary.
Fig.4 - The completed statuary.
In fig.3,we see the progression of the statuary through the halfway point and the finished section with all the details added in Fig.4. As you can see,the statues and columns are only half figures that emerge from the paper. In retrospect,if I had to do it over,I would have done full columns and full bodied statues independent of the paper.....but again,I was just beginning to learn the process of it at that time. In pieces such as this,you can leave it completely white as many sculptures often were in the cathedrals,or you can paint them to achieve a fuller depth and more ornate appearance.
Fig.5 - Painted and detailed section.
In Fig.5,the fully painted statuary is presented. The paints used on the statues are all oil paints,and the backgrounds painted black. The structural parts were done with mica powders mixed with transparent gesso. The powders used are Antique Bronze,Copperplate Gold and a mixture of antique bronze with a couple drops of black ink. This is used to give it more depth and a somewhat weathered look You may be asking about the dimensions of this section. The height overall is 3 inches and the distance from center of column to center of column is 1 inch. The statues are app. 1 3/4 inch tall by 5/8 inch wide. The overall width of the statuary is 13 inches.
That is about it for this turgid episode. Tune in next time and we'll continue this series by explaining the outer framework and doorway statues around the capital letter. Hopefully,this will help give you some ideas for your own works, Good luck!
Saturday, October 22, 2016
The Thrilling Days Of Yesteryear.....again
No,we are not talking about "A fiery horse with the speed of light, a cloud of dust, and a hearty
Hi-yo, Silver, away", but we will explore the temporal aspect of design tools and artistry. Hopefully,you will get some ideas for your own works from this. Having been a machinist/fabricator for several years, I somewhat gained a familiarity with the drafting and design aspects of the trade.....albeit a now long outdated familiarity! While in trade school,I learned the basics on machine tools(lathes,mills,..etc.) of 1930's-1950's vintage. The automotive tooling company I was employed at used machines mostly from the pre-1980 era,and we worked the tooling in by hand with high spot dyes and hand files...no different than the process had been since before World War 2! Projects were generally overseen by a journeyman machinist with a
number of apprentices working under him with a timeline of up to and sometimes more than 3 months to complete the job. Nowadays,with the advent of technology,the same jobs can be done in a fraction of the time with a minimum number of personnel using computerized multi-axis machining centers. The same has been true of the design departments. During the postbellum Industrial Age years of the 19th and well into the 20th century, manufacturing companies would have large engineering departments employing scores of draftsmen who would sit side by side at their respective tables turning out prints for dies,molds,machines or whatever production parts they were to make. As with the machinery,advancements in Computer Aided Design(CAD) technology would inevitably,though not completely, eliminate the need for manual drafting
equipment and large numbers of men to draw the prints.
Fig.1 - An army of designers and draftsmen of the Ediston Boylston
engineering department toiling away....early 1940's
Since these old fashioned drafting tools have largely fell out of favor with modern designers,those of us in the calligraphy art realm can easily adapt them for our use,especially if you are like me, a stickler for precision of detail...or if you are beginning your journey in the field and are looking for a way to add a new dimension to your works. Some basic layout pieces such as combination curve/hole templates and protractors may be found in local mercantiles in the school supply sections,but the good high quality tools may be found on Ebay. There,you will find a wide array of French curves,round and elliptical hole templates and protractors. Very high quality vintage draftsman compass sets may bought there for a fraction of their original price! Another layout tool no calligraphy artist should be without is the drafting arm machine,a device which clamps to the table and mechanically mimics the movement of the human arm and contains a protracting head with 2 measuring scales,usually graduated in .025" increments. On Ebay,you can find several of these machines very reasonably priced and made by great companies like Vemco and Bruning. Of course,if you are seeking the truly old ones,you can actually find some from the World War 1 era or before made by the Universal Drafting Machine Company.
Fig.2 - Vintage set of drafting layout tools including: circle and elliptical hole templates,protractors,
30-60-90 degree triangle,French curves. Sets like these and bigger all available on Ebay for very low prices.
Fig.3 - Vintage high quality compass set,German made.
Fig.3 - Drafting machines
Vemco brand of 1970's vintage on the left,and a Universal Drafting Machine Co.
model from circa 1910 on the right.
Fig.4 - Layout for Ten Commandments piece.
Laying out this piece utilised nearly all the tools from the above pictures(Figs.1-3),
especially the drafting machine and French curve...note the layout lines.
If you haven't tried any of the tools pictured here before,and are doing pieces by free hand, I highly recommend all of them! They will open the door to a whole new level of precise and complex layouts and experimentation that freehand and simple rulers can not readily or easily achieve. So if you are looking for the "right tool(s) for the job",as the old adage goes,hopefully this will give you an idea of what is available out there to expand your artistic toolbox and your creativeness as well. Remember,go to Ebay and search for "vintage drafting tools"....you will be glad you did. Good luck!
Hi-yo, Silver, away", but we will explore the temporal aspect of design tools and artistry. Hopefully,you will get some ideas for your own works from this. Having been a machinist/fabricator for several years, I somewhat gained a familiarity with the drafting and design aspects of the trade.....albeit a now long outdated familiarity! While in trade school,I learned the basics on machine tools(lathes,mills,..etc.) of 1930's-1950's vintage. The automotive tooling company I was employed at used machines mostly from the pre-1980 era,and we worked the tooling in by hand with high spot dyes and hand files...no different than the process had been since before World War 2! Projects were generally overseen by a journeyman machinist with a
number of apprentices working under him with a timeline of up to and sometimes more than 3 months to complete the job. Nowadays,with the advent of technology,the same jobs can be done in a fraction of the time with a minimum number of personnel using computerized multi-axis machining centers. The same has been true of the design departments. During the postbellum Industrial Age years of the 19th and well into the 20th century, manufacturing companies would have large engineering departments employing scores of draftsmen who would sit side by side at their respective tables turning out prints for dies,molds,machines or whatever production parts they were to make. As with the machinery,advancements in Computer Aided Design(CAD) technology would inevitably,though not completely, eliminate the need for manual drafting
equipment and large numbers of men to draw the prints.
Fig.1 - An army of designers and draftsmen of the Ediston Boylston
engineering department toiling away....early 1940's
Since these old fashioned drafting tools have largely fell out of favor with modern designers,those of us in the calligraphy art realm can easily adapt them for our use,especially if you are like me, a stickler for precision of detail...or if you are beginning your journey in the field and are looking for a way to add a new dimension to your works. Some basic layout pieces such as combination curve/hole templates and protractors may be found in local mercantiles in the school supply sections,but the good high quality tools may be found on Ebay. There,you will find a wide array of French curves,round and elliptical hole templates and protractors. Very high quality vintage draftsman compass sets may bought there for a fraction of their original price! Another layout tool no calligraphy artist should be without is the drafting arm machine,a device which clamps to the table and mechanically mimics the movement of the human arm and contains a protracting head with 2 measuring scales,usually graduated in .025" increments. On Ebay,you can find several of these machines very reasonably priced and made by great companies like Vemco and Bruning. Of course,if you are seeking the truly old ones,you can actually find some from the World War 1 era or before made by the Universal Drafting Machine Company.
Fig.2 - Vintage set of drafting layout tools including: circle and elliptical hole templates,protractors,
30-60-90 degree triangle,French curves. Sets like these and bigger all available on Ebay for very low prices.
Fig.3 - Vintage high quality compass set,German made.
Fig.3 - Drafting machines
Vemco brand of 1970's vintage on the left,and a Universal Drafting Machine Co.
model from circa 1910 on the right.
Laying out this piece utilised nearly all the tools from the above pictures(Figs.1-3),
especially the drafting machine and French curve...note the layout lines.
If you haven't tried any of the tools pictured here before,and are doing pieces by free hand, I highly recommend all of them! They will open the door to a whole new level of precise and complex layouts and experimentation that freehand and simple rulers can not readily or easily achieve. So if you are looking for the "right tool(s) for the job",as the old adage goes,hopefully this will give you an idea of what is available out there to expand your artistic toolbox and your creativeness as well. Remember,go to Ebay and search for "vintage drafting tools"....you will be glad you did. Good luck!
Wednesday, October 19, 2016
"It's Always Best To Start At The Beginning..."
To those of you who happen across this page,welcome! This is my first ever attempt at doing a blog page,so bear with me. While racking my brain to think of what to do for the first posting,I happened to remember a line from 'The Wizard Of Oz" where Glinda,the Good Witch gave Dorothy a sage line of advice in starting her trip to the Emerald City......."It's always best to start at the beginning,and all you do is follow the Yellow Brick Road". For those of us whose passion is art,we can all appreciate the plight of Dorothy and her travails in getting to Emerald City.We choose our individual discipline(s) and work with dogged determination to learn and master new skills to reach the ultimate goal of being the absolute very best artist we can possibly be.
Regardless of what level we are,be it the budding novice,intermediate or accomplished professional,one thing we have in common is that we can all trace our artistic journeys back to their humble beginnings.I am about to give away my age here,but that's okay! For myself,the beginning came at the age of two way back in 1968.The first handful of my years was spent as a navy brat moving around to my father's stations of duty.At that fateful location,we lived next door to an older couple named the Robinsons. Red was a World War 2 veteran who worked for the postal service,and was a very personable and jolly man. Every time we paid them a visit,he would seat me at their kitchen table,give me a small glass if iced tea,take out some pencils and paper and get me to draw a cat,a dog,a house,a car or any general object for him. He would patiently work with me showing me how to draw different things.His lessons stuck with me through the years as I started school and graduated into drawing dinosaurs,spaceships and eventually people and animals. My big regret is that I did not stick with it in rigid continuity,but I always came back to it eventually. Now that I am older,I find that art has become an inseparable passion for me and I owe all of it to an old man who profoundly affected my life. He has long since passed,but I can only hope that my works have done him proud!
So,other than the anecdote of my personal beginnings with pencil and paper,what can we take away here? Maybe that at one time or another we are all Dorothy,but we can also be Glinda in that through our kindly patience, a youthful mind may be profoundly set at the beginning of their own Yellow Brick Road in the search for their Emerald City!
Regardless of what level we are,be it the budding novice,intermediate or accomplished professional,one thing we have in common is that we can all trace our artistic journeys back to their humble beginnings.I am about to give away my age here,but that's okay! For myself,the beginning came at the age of two way back in 1968.The first handful of my years was spent as a navy brat moving around to my father's stations of duty.At that fateful location,we lived next door to an older couple named the Robinsons. Red was a World War 2 veteran who worked for the postal service,and was a very personable and jolly man. Every time we paid them a visit,he would seat me at their kitchen table,give me a small glass if iced tea,take out some pencils and paper and get me to draw a cat,a dog,a house,a car or any general object for him. He would patiently work with me showing me how to draw different things.His lessons stuck with me through the years as I started school and graduated into drawing dinosaurs,spaceships and eventually people and animals. My big regret is that I did not stick with it in rigid continuity,but I always came back to it eventually. Now that I am older,I find that art has become an inseparable passion for me and I owe all of it to an old man who profoundly affected my life. He has long since passed,but I can only hope that my works have done him proud!
So,other than the anecdote of my personal beginnings with pencil and paper,what can we take away here? Maybe that at one time or another we are all Dorothy,but we can also be Glinda in that through our kindly patience, a youthful mind may be profoundly set at the beginning of their own Yellow Brick Road in the search for their Emerald City!
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